Well and Private Water Systems
Well and Private Water Systems
Source: InterNACHI "Private Drinking Water and Wells"
Basic Info
All of us need clean water to drink. We can go for weeks without food, but only days without water. Contaminated water can be a threat to anyone’s health, but especially to young children. About 15 percent of Americans have their own sources of drinking water, such as wells, cisterns, and springs. Unlike public drinking water systems serving many people, they do not have experts regularly checking the water’s source and its quality before it is sent through pipes to the community
A well is the most common way to obtain groundwater for household use. A well is basically a hole in the ground, held open by a pipe (or casing) that extends to an aquifer. A pump draws water from the aquifer for distribution through the plumbing system. The depth to which wells are constructed is determined by factors such as
1) depth to groundwater,
2) the groundwater quality, and
3) the geologic conditions at the well site. Wells can range in depth from 15 feet to over 1,000 feet. Wells that are drilled very near each other often have similar depths. However, the depth of wells in glacial deposits can vary greatly — even if they are located next door to each other.
Water in nature, whether surface water or groundwater, is never pure “H2O.” Instead, it contains a variety of dissolved minerals and gases that are usually harmless and give the water most of its taste. Some natural minerals, like iron, magnesium, or calcium can make well water aesthetically objectionable, but usually are not harmful. But water can sometimes be contaminated with things like bacteria, viruses, or chemicals that can harm our health. Contaminated water can often look, smell, and taste fine, so there is no substitute for periodic testing of well water. Proper well construction, disinfection, system maintenance, and regular water testing all help to assure safe drinking water.
Household well owners should rely on help from local health departments. They may help you with yearly testing for bacteria and nitrates. They may also oversee the placement and construction of new wells to meet state and local regulations. Most have rules about locating drinking water wells near septic tanks, drain fields, and livestock. But remember, the final responsibility for constructing your well correctly, protecting it from pollution, and maintaining it falls on the well owner.
You should be aware because the Safe Drinking Water Act does not protect private wells. EPA’s rules only apply to “public drinking water systems” — government or privately run companies supplying water to 25 people or 15 service connections. While most states regulate private household wells, most have limited rules. Individual well owners have primary responsibility for the safety of the water drawn from their wells. They do not benefit from the government’s health protections for water systems serving many families.
Basic Types of Wells
Dug Wells
Dug wells are usually holes in the ground dug by shovel or backhoe. Historically, a dug well was excavated below the groundwater table until incoming water exceeded the digger’s bailing rate. The well was then lined (cased) with stones, brick, tile, or other material to prevent collapse. It was covered with a cap of wood, stone, or concrete. Since it is so difficult to dig beneath the groundwater table, dug wells are not very deep. Typically, they are only 10 to 30 feet deep. Being so shallow, dug wells have the highest risk of becoming contaminated. To minimize the likelihood of contamination, your dug well should have certain features. These features help to prevent contaminants from traveling along the outside of the casing or through the casing and into the well. Dug wells usually have a diameter of about 3 feet which is considerably wider than a drilled well diameter. Thus, more water can be stored in reserve for a dug well. However, this water has a higher surface area, which contributes to the tendency for dug wells to go dry much easier than other types of wells.
Dug Well Construction Features
Drilled Wells
Drive-Point Wells
A drive-point well — also known as a sand-point or well-point — is constructed using a pointed screen on the end of a series of tightly coupled lengths of steel pipe. The well casing pipe, which is usually 1¼ inches in diameter, is driven into the ground with a heavy hammer or well driver until the point is below the water table. Water then flows into the pipe through screened openings in the well point.
Bored Wells and Dug Wells
A bored well is constructed using an earth auger, which bores a hole into the earth. The bore hole is then lined — or cased — with masonry, concrete curbing, or casing. A dug well is constructed by excavating or digging a hole, generally several feet in diameter, down to the water table. Rock, brick, wood, pipe, and other materials have been used in the past to line the walls of dug wells. Dug wells, bored wells, and drive-point wells are often less than 50 feet deep, and are more likely to be contaminated by surface water, sewage from septic systems, or chemical spills. Many of the techniques used in the past for constructing dug or bored wells are not sanitary and are no longer legal under the state rules.
Well Casing
New household wells are lined with steel or plastic pipe known as well casing. The casing is typically 4 to 6 inches in diameter and extends from above the ground surface into the aquifer. The casing provides a connection to the groundwater and a pathway for bringing the water to the surface. The casing also prevents loose soil, sediment, rock, and contaminants from entering the well. The casing may also house and protect the pump. In order to prevent contaminants from entering the well, the well casing must be properly vented and have a cap that is weatherproof and insect-proof. The type of casing chosen depends on the drilling method, local geological conditions, and natural groundwater quality. Steel casing is installed when the cable tool method is used to construct the well, or when high strength is needed. Plastic casing is lighter in weight and resistant to the corrosive effects of some groundwater, as well as the effects of chemicals that may be used to treat the system. Whichever type of casing is installed, it must be watertight, extend at least 15 feet below the ground surface, some states have their own specifications and standards that must be met.
Well Screen
If a well pumps water from a sand or gravel aquifer, a well screen is usually attached to the bottom of the casing. The screen is a sieve or strainer-like cylinder that extends into the aquifer and allows water to move through it, while preventing sand and gravel from entering the well. The screen openings — or slot size — are selected by determining the size of the sand or gravel particles comprising the aquifer. A well screen is generally not necessary if the bottom of the well has been drilled into solid bedrock — such as sandstone, limestone, or granite — that can remain open on its own. The screen is typically made of stainless steel, carbon steel, plastic, or brass. Stainless steel or plastic screens are most often used if the groundwater is corrosive. The screen is typically 3 to 5 feet in length for residential wells but may be tens of feet long for municipal, industrial, or irrigation wells. It is usually slightly smaller than the diameter of the well casing. It may be threaded or welded to the casing. It may also be telescoped — that is, inserted inside the well casing and sealed to the casing with a neoprene packer. An envelope of sand or gravel — called a gravel pack or a filter pack — may be placed outside the well screen, between the screen and the bore hole wall. The filter pack keeps fine sediment from entering the screen and also promotes the movement of water into the well
Grouting
The rotary drilling method produces a bore hole which is larger in diameter than the casing. The space between the outside of the well casing and the bore hole wall is called the annular space. After the well casing has been placed in the bore hole, it is necessary to fill the annular space to keep surface water and other contaminants from entering the well. The material used to fill this annular space is called grout, a specific mixture of water and cement, or water and “bentonite” clay, and sometimes other permitted additives such as sand. There are restrictions and regulations on how the grout must be installed in certain states such as, the grout must be pumped in from the bottom of the well upward, to assure a complete seal around the casing. The usual method is to insert a ¾- to 1¼-inch diameter pipe (known as a grout pipe or tremie pipe) down to the bottom of the space between the well casing and the bore hole. The grout is then pumped in until it comes to the ground surface. The grout must not be poured from the surface. All rotary-drilled wells must be grouted from a required minimum depth to the surface or to the base of the pitless adapter or unit. There are additional grouting requirements for some other types of wells, such as flowing wells, and wells drilled in certain kinds of rock.
Developing a Well
After a well is drilled, it is necessary to remove drilling mud, cuttings, and loose sediment from the bottom of the well and from around the screen. This process, which promotes the movement of water into the well, is called development. A number of techniques can be used to develop a well. Air or water can be injected into the well, or water can be pumped out of the well at higher than normal rates. A properly constructed and developed well should not normally produce sand. If you notice sand in your water, you should call your well contractor. The sand can damage or plug up your well pump, water softeners, plumbing, faucets, and many household appliances, such as dishwashers.
The Water System
Introduction
A water system is needed to pump the water out of the well to the surface and deliver it under pressure to the place where you will be using it. A typical home water system consists of a pump, a pitless adapter or unit, and a pressure storage tank and control devices that allow the system to operate automatically.
Pumps
A pump is used to push or lift water from the well into your household plumbing. The correct size of pump and pump motor depends on the well diameter, the water level in the well, the number of plumbing fixtures, the amount of water use, and the peak water demand. Peak demand usually occurs during the morning and evening hours. Pumps are rated in gallons per minute (gpm) or gallons per hour (gph), and pump motors are rated in horsepower (hp). A typical pump for domestic use might have a 10 gpm pump with a ½ or ¾ hp motor. Special water needs — such as for irrigation, heat pumps, or livestock — can increase peak demand and require a larger pump. If the required rate of flow to meet the peak water demand exceeds the rate that the well can produce water, the difference can often be made up by increasing the storage capacity of the pressure tank.
Submersible
Pumps A submersible pump, which is the type most often used in drilled wells, consists of a pump and motor unit, typically 3½ inches in diameter and 2 to 3 feet long. The pump is placed directly into the well, below the water level, as indicated in Figure 3. Most submersible pumps are used in wells 4 inches or more in diameter, but some pumps are available for wells that are 3 inches in diameter.
For a submersible pump, a trench must be dug for the installation process and for the electrical wires that run to the pump. The submersible pump sits in the well water and thus electrical wires must run into the well, to the well casing. The wires can go into the water service pipe. There can be underground utilities in the path of the excavation, and this must me avoided. It is usually simple to get someone to come out and mark the underground utilities and there may be a service in place that already offers this type of identification. The trench must go deeper than the frost line due to the fact that the water service pipe has water in it constantly and thus is susceptible to freezing. The frost line will change from one location to the next and your local code office should have that information.
Jet Pumps
Jet pumps are most often used on wells that are 3 inches or less in diameter, such as drivepoint or other shallow wells. The pump may be located on top of the well — or it may be offset from the well in a pump house, and connected to the well with piping. Jet pumps typically have a lower operating pressure and a lower water yield than submersible pumps. Jet pumps operate by forcing water through a jet or venturi — a narrow, cone-shaped device which creates a partial vacuum (suction) and draws water from the well into the pumping system.
Shallow well jet pumps — which are used where the water is less than 25 feet below the surface — have the jet located in the pump itself. For deeper wells, the jet is located inside the well below the water level.
Deep Well Jet Installations
Two types of jet assemblies are used in deeper wells: two pipe jets and packer jets. The two-pipe jet has both a pressure pipe and a suction pipe located inside the well. A packer jet uses a single pipe for the suction pipe with the space between the outside of the suction pipe and the well casing acting as the pressure pipe. The inner pipe is sealed to the casing with a rubber or leather gasket called a packer. Deep well jet installations require a foot valve below the jet in the well. The foot valve is simply a check valve which allows water to flow into the jet when the pump is running but closes tight when the pump shuts off. In some two pipe jet installations, a tail pipe with a foot valve is added to the bottom of the jet assembly. The purpose of the tail pipe is to prevent the risk of over-pumping, which would allow air to enter the system. Deep well jet pumps are usually installed on wells with water levels less than 200 feet deep. All jet pump systems have some portions of the piping that operate under suction. In systems where the pump is located some distance away from the well, the suction pipe is usually buried. If a buried section of suction pipe between the well and the pump developed a leak, contaminants could be drawn into the water supply system. For that reason, some state laws specify that concentric pipe must be used for buried sections of suction pipe. Concentric piping consists of a suction pipe, which is contained inside an outer, pressurized pipe.
Turbine Pumps
Turbine pumps are typically used for municipal, industrial, or irrigation wells, which produce a large volume of water. They have a motor which is placed on top of the well and a turbine shaft extending below the water level. The bottom of the shaft is connected to impellers which push water to the discharge pipe at the top of the well.
Cylinder Pumps
Cylinder pumps, which are used in windmills and hand pumps, have largely been replaced by jet pumps or submersible pumps. They consist of a cylinder on a pump rod, which moves up and down and forces water to the surface.
Pressure Tanks
Most water systems include a water storage container called a pressure tank or hydropneumatic tank (Figures 3 and 4). The pressure tank is usually located in the basement or a utility room, although some types of tanks may be buried underground.
The pressure tank has three purposes:
• To store water and provide water under pressure when the pump is not running.
• To build up a reserve supply of water each time the pump runs, so the pump has to start and stop less often. This serves to prolong the life of the pump.
• To provide a reserve supply of water for use during times of high demand. As the name implies, a pressure tank contains water under pressure. As water is pumped into the tank, it compresses the air in the tank until the pressure reaches a preset level — typically from 40 to 60 pounds per square inch (psi) — which automatically shuts off the pump. When a faucet is opened, the air pressure in the tank forces water through the pipes until the pressure drops to another preset level — usually from 20 to 40 psi — which starts the pump again. A pressure switch starts and stops the pump at the preset pressure levels, and allows the system to work automatically.
Drawdown
The size of the tank usually depends on the amount of water produced by the pump in 1 to 2 minutes. The amount of water delivered by the pressure tank between the time the pump shuts down and the time it starts up again is called the drawdown. The drawdown is typically much smaller than the overall size of the tank. Common pressure tank sizes range from 10 gallons to over 200 gallons. Tanks holding 20 to 44 gallons, which have a drawdown of 5 to 16 gallons, are the most frequently used. Larger tanks, or more than one tank, may be needed for low-yield wells or systems with high water demands. The most common type of pressure tank design has a diaphragm or bladder, which provides a permanent separation between the air and the water in the tank. If the air and water are not separated, the water can eventually absorb all the air in the tank, a condition called waterlogging. The pump will then rapidly turn on and off, which is called “cycling.” It is a good idea to have a faucet placed near the pressure tank for flushing the tank and collecting water samples for testing.
What Problems Can Occur?
Actual events of drinking water contamination are rare, and typically do not occur at levels likely to pose health concerns. However, as development in our modern society increases, there are growing numbers of activities that can contaminate our drinking water. Improperly disposed-of chemicals, animal and human wastes, wastes injected underground, and naturally occurring substances have the potential to contaminate drinking water. Likewise, drinking water that is not properly treated or disinfected, or that travels through an improperly maintained distribution system, may also pose a health risk. Greater vigilance by you, your water supplier, and your government can help prevent such events in your water supply.
Contaminants can enter water supplies either as a result of human and animal activities, or because they occur naturally in the environment. Threats to your drinking water may exist in your neighborhood, or may occur many miles away. For more information on drinking water threats, see www.epa.gov/safewater/publicoutreach/landscapeposter.html. Some typical examples are microbial contamination, chemical contamination from fertilizers, and lead contamination.
Lead Contamination
Lead, a metal found in natural deposits, is commonly used in household plumbing materials and water service lines. The greatest exposure to lead is swallowing lead paint chips or breathing in lead dust.
But lead in drinking water can also cause a variety of adverse health effects. In babies and children, exposure to lead in drinking water above the action level of lead (0.015 milligram per liter) can result in delays in physical and mental development, along with slight deficits in attention span and learning abilities.
Adults who drink this water over many years could develop kidney problems or high blood pressure. Lead is rarely found in source water, but enters tap water through corrosion of plumbing materials. Very old and poorly maintained homes may be more likely to have lead pipes, joints, and solder. However, new homes are also at risk: pipes legally considered to be “lead-free” may contain up to eight percent lead. These pipes can leach significant amounts of lead in the water for the first several months after their installation.
Microbial Contamination
The potential for health problems from microbial contaminated drinking water is demonstrated by localized outbreaks of waterborne disease. Many of these outbreaks have been linked to contamination by bacteria or viruses, probably from human or animal wastes. For example, in 1999 and 2000, there were 39 reported disease outbreaks associated with drinking water, some of which were linked to public drinking water supplies. Certain pathogens (disease-causing microorganisms), such as Cryptosporidium, may occasionally pass through water filtration and disinfection processes in numbers high enough to cause health problems, particularly in vulnerable members of the population. Cryptosporidium causes the gastrointestinal disease, cryptosporidiosis, and can cause serious, sometimes fatal, symptoms, especially among sensitive members of the population.
A serious outbreak of cryptosporidiosis occurred in 1993 in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, causing more than 400,000 persons to be infected with the disease, and resulting in at least 50 deaths. This was the largest recorded outbreak of waterborne disease in United States history.
Chemical Contamination and Blue Baby Syndrome
Chemical Contamination from Fertilizers:
Nitrate, a chemical most commonly used as a fertilizer, poses an immediate threat to infants when it is found in drinking water at levels above the national standard. Nitrates are converted to nitrites in the intestines. Once absorbed into the bloodstream, nitrites prevent hemoglobin from transporting oxygen. (Older children have an enzyme that restores hemoglobin.) Excessive levels can cause “blue baby syndrome,” which can be fatal without immediate medical attention. Infants most at risk for blue baby syndrome are those who are already sick, and while they are sick, consume food that is high in nitrates or drink water or formula mixed with water that is high in nitrates. Avoid using water with high nitrate levels for drinking. This is especially important for infants and young children, nursing mothers, pregnant women and certain elderly people. Nitrate levels above 10 mg/L (reported as nitrogen) can cause a condition known as infantile methemoglobinemia, or blue baby syndrome, in infants less than six months old. This condition occurs when nitrate is ingested and then converted to nitrite (NO2) by stomach bacteria. The nitrite then reacts with hemoglobin in the blood to form methemoglobin. The build up of methemoglobin reduces the ability of the blood to carry oxygen. If the level of methemoglobin becomes high enough, the baby’s skin will turn a bluish color and suffocation can occur. Untreated methemoglobinemia can be fatal, but it is reversible with prompt medical attention. After six months of age, the conversion of nitrate to nitrite in the stomach no longer occurs. Water containing more than 10 mg/L nitratenitrogen should not be given to infants less than six months of age either directly or in formula. Blue baby syndrome has been known to occur after just one day of exposure to high nitrate water.
How Much Risk to Expect
The risk of having problems depends on how good your well is — how well it was built and located, and how well it is maintained. It also depends on your local environment. That includes the quality of the aquifer from which you draw your water and the human activities going on in your area that can affect your well water. Some questions to consider in protecting your drinking water and maintaining your well are:
• What distance should my well be from sources of human wastes such as septic systems?
• How far should it be from animal feedlots or manure spreading?
• What are the types of soil and underlying rocks? Does water flow easily or collect on the surface?
• How deep must a well be dug to avoid seasonal changes in ground water supply?
• What activities in my area (farming, mining, industry) might affect my well?
• What is the age of my well, its pump, and other parts?
• Is my water distribution system protected from cross connections and backflow problems?
Quick Reference of Problems Quick Reference List of Noticeable Problems Visible
• Scale or scum from calcium or magnesium salts in water
• Unclear/turbid water from dirt, clay salts, silt or rust in water
• Green stains on sinks or faucets caused by high acidity
• Brown-red stains on sinks, dishwasher, or clothes in wash points to dissolved iron in water
• Cloudy water that clears upon standing may have air bubbles from poorly working pump or problem with filters Tastes
• Salty or brackish taste from high sodium content in water
• Alkali/soapy taste from dissolved alkaline minerals in water
• Metallic taste from acidity or high iron content inwater
• Chemical taste from industrial chemicals orpesticides Smell
• A rotten egg odor can be from dissolved hydrogen sulfide gas orcertain bacteria in your water. If the smell only comes with hot water it islikely from a part in your hot water heater.
• A detergent odor and water that foams when drawn could be seepage from septic tanks into your ground water well.
• A gasoline or oil smell indicates fuel oil or gasoline likely seeping from a tank into the water supply
• Methane gas or musty/earthy smell from decaying organic matter inwater
• Chlorine smell from excessive chlorination. Note: Many serious problems (bacteria, heavy metals, nitrates, radon, and many chemicals) can only be found by laboratory testing of water.
Naturally Occurring Pollutants
Microorganisms: Bacteria, viruses, parasites and other microorganisms are sometimes found in water. Shallow wells — those with water close to ground level — are at most risk.
Runoff: Runoff, or water flowing over the land surface, may pick up these pollutants from wildlife and soils. This is often the case after flooding. Some of these organisms can cause a variety of illnesses. Symptoms include nausea and diarrhea. These can occur shortly after drinking contaminated water. The effects could be short-term yet severe (similar to food poisoning) or might recur frequently or develop slowly over a long time.
Radionuclides: Radionuclides are radioactive elements such as uranium and radium. They may be present in underlying rock and groundwater. Radon — a gas that is a natural product of the breakdown of uranium in the soil — can also pose a threat. Radon is most dangerous when in- haled and contributes to lung cancer. Although soil is the primary source, using household water containing Radon contributes to elevated indoor Radon levels. Radon is less dangerous when consumed in water, but remains a risk to health.
Nitrates and Nitrites: Although high nitrate levels are usually due to human activities (see below), they may be found naturally in ground water. They come from the breakdown of nitrogen compounds in the soil. Flowing ground water picks them up from the soil. Drinking large amounts of nitrates and nitrites is particularly threatening to infants (for example, when mixed in formula).
Heavy Metals: Underground rocks and soils may contain arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead, and selenium. However, these contaminants are not often found in household wells at dangerous levels from natural sources. Fluoride: Fluoride is helpful in dental health, so many water systems add small amounts to drinking water. However, excessive consumption of naturally occurring fluoride can Page 34 of 82 damage bone tissue. High levels of fluoride occur naturally in some areas. It may discolor teeth, but this is not a health risk.
Human Activities That Pollute Ground Water
Bacteria and Nitrates: These pollutants are found in human and animal wastes. Septic tanks can cause bacterial and nitrate pollution. So can large numbers of farm animals. Both septic systems and animal manures must be carefully managed to prevent pollution. Sanitary landfills and garbage dumps are also sources. Children and some adults are at extra risk when exposed to water-born bacteria. These include the elderly and people whose immune systems are weak due to AIDS or treatments for cancer. Fertilizers can add to nitrate problems. Nitrates cause a health threat in very young infants called “blue baby” syndrome. This condition disrupts oxygen flow in the blood.
Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs): The number of CAFOs, often called “factory farms,” is growing. On these farms thousands of animals are raised in a small space. The large amounts of animal wastes/ manures from these farms can threaten water supplies. Strict and careful manure management is needed to prevent pathogen and nutrient problems. Salts from high levels of manures can also pollute groundwater.
Heavy Metals: Activities such as mining and construction can release large amounts of heavy metals into nearby ground water sources. Some older fruit orchards may contain high levels of arsenic, once used as a pesticide. At high levels, these metals pose a health risk.
Fertilizers and Pesticides: Farmers use fertilizers and pesticides to pro- mote growth and reduce insect damage. These products are also used on golf courses and suburban lawns and gardens. The chemicals in these products may end up in ground water. Such pollution depends on the types and amounts of chemicals used and how they are applied. Local environ- mental conditions (soil types, seasonal snow and rainfall) also affect this pollution. Many fertilizers contain forms of nitrogen that can break down into harmful nitrates. This could add to other sources of nitrates mentioned above. Some underground agricultural drainage systems collect fertilizers and pesticides. This polluted water can pose problems to ground water and local streams and rivers. In addition, chemicals used to treat buildings and homes for termites or other pests may also pose a threat. Again, the possibility of problems depends on the amount and kind of chemicals. The types of soil and the amount of water moving through the soil also play a role.
How to Spot Potential Problems
The potential for pollution entering your well is affected by its placement and construction — how close is your well to potential sources of pollution? Local agricultural and industrial activities, your area’s geology and climate also matter. Because ground water contamination is usually localized, the best way to identify potential contaminants is to gather more knowledge on the subject and/or consult a local expert. For example, talk with a geologist at a local college or someone from a nearby public water system. They’ll know about conditions in your area.
Knowing When to Test
The following questions will help you determine when it is necessary to test the ground water supply:
• Do you expect to have a new baby in the household? Test for nitrate in the early months of a pregnancy, before bringing an infant home, and again during the first six months of the baby’s life. It is best to test for nitrate during the spring or summer following a rainy period.
• Is there a taste, odor and staining issues? Test for sulfate, chloride, iron, manganese, hardness and corrosion, and every three years. If you suspect other contaminants, test for these also.
• Has there been a chemical or fuel spill or leak near the water supply? Test the well for chemical contaminants, such as volatile organic compounds. Tests can be expensive; limit them to possible problems specific to your situation. Local experts can tell you about possible impurities in your area.
• Is someone in the household pregnant or nursing an infant?
• Are there unexplained illnesses in the family?
• Do you notice a change in water taste, odor, color or clarity?
Test water every year for total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids, and pH levels. If you suspect other contaminants, test for these also. Chemical tests can be expensive. Limit them to possible problems specific to your situation. Again, local experts can tell you about possible impurities in your area. Often county health departments do tests for bacteria and nitrates. For other substances, health departments, environmental offices, or county governments should have a list of state certified laboratories. Your State Laboratory Certification Officer can also provide one. Call EPA’s Safe Drinking Water Hotline, (800) 426- 4791, for the name and phone number of your state’s certification officer.
Before taking a sample, contact the lab that will perform your tests. Ask for instructions and sampling bottles. Follow the instructions carefully so you will get correct results. The first step is getting a good water sample. It is also important to follow advice about storing the samples. Ask how soon they must be taken to the lab for testing.
These instructions can be very different for each substance being tested.
Remember to test water after replacing or repairing any part of the well system (piping, pump, or the well itself.) Also test if you notice a change in the water’s look, taste, or smell
Understanding Test Results
Have your well water tested for any possible contaminants in your area. Use a stateapproved testing lab. Do not be surprised if a lot of substances are found and reported to you.
The amount of risk from a drinking water contaminant depends on the specific substance and the amount in the water. The health of the person also matters. Some contaminant cause immediate and severe effects. It may take only one bacterium or virus to make a weak person sick. Another person may not be affected. For very young children, taking in high levels of nitrate over a relatively short period of time can be very dangerous. Many other contaminants pose a long-term or chronic threat to your health — a little bit consumed regularly over a long time could cause health problems such as trouble having children and other effects.
EPA drinking water rules for public water systems aim to protect people from both short and long term health hazards. The amounts of contaminants allowed are based on protecting people over a lifetime of drinking water. Public water systems are required to test their water regularly before delivery. They also treat it so that it meets drinking water standards, notify customers if water does not meet standards and provide annual water quality reports.
Compare your well’s test results to federal and state drinking water standards. (You can find these standards at www.epa.gov/safewater/mcl.html or call the Safe Drinking Water Hotline 800-426-4791. In some cases, the laboratory will give a very helpful explanation. But you may have to rely on other experts to aid you in understanding the results.
Well Construction and Maintenance
Proper well construction and continued maintenance are keys to the safety of your water supply. Your state water-well contractor licensing agency, local health department, or local water system professional can provide information on well construction. Water-well drillers and pump-well installers are listed in your local phone directory. The contractor should be bonded and insured. Make certain your ground water contractor is registered or licensed in your state, if required. If your state does not have a licensing/registration program contact the National Ground Water Association. They have a voluntary certification program for contractors. (In fact, some states use the Association’s exams as their test for licensing.) For a list of certified con- tractors in your state contact the Association at (614) 898-7791 or (800) 551-7379. There is no cost for mailing or faxing the list to you.
Many homeowners tend to forget the value of good maintenance until problems reach crisis levels. That can be expensive. It’s better to maintain your well, find problems early, and correct them to protect your well’s performance. Keep up-to-date records of well installation and repairs plus pumping and water tests. Such records can help spot changes and possible problems with your water system. If you have problems, ask a local expert to check your well construction and maintenance records. He or she can see if your system is okay or needs work.
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Basic Info
All of us need clean water to drink. We can go for weeks without food, but only days without water. Contaminated water can be a threat to anyone’s health, but especially to young children. About 15 percent of Americans have their own sources of drinking water, such as wells, cisterns, and springs. Unlike public drinking water systems serving many people, they do not have experts regularly checking the water’s source and its quality before it is sent through pipes to the community
A well is the most common way to obtain groundwater for household use. A well is basically a hole in the ground, held open by a pipe (or casing) that extends to an aquifer. A pump draws water from the aquifer for distribution through the plumbing system. The depth to which wells are constructed is determined by factors such as
1) depth to groundwater,
2) the groundwater quality, and
3) the geologic conditions at the well site. Wells can range in depth from 15 feet to over 1,000 feet. Wells that are drilled very near each other often have similar depths. However, the depth of wells in glacial deposits can vary greatly — even if they are located next door to each other.
Water in nature, whether surface water or groundwater, is never pure “H2O.” Instead, it contains a variety of dissolved minerals and gases that are usually harmless and give the water most of its taste. Some natural minerals, like iron, magnesium, or calcium can make well water aesthetically objectionable, but usually are not harmful. But water can sometimes be contaminated with things like bacteria, viruses, or chemicals that can harm our health. Contaminated water can often look, smell, and taste fine, so there is no substitute for periodic testing of well water. Proper well construction, disinfection, system maintenance, and regular water testing all help to assure safe drinking water.
Household well owners should rely on help from local health departments. They may help you with yearly testing for bacteria and nitrates. They may also oversee the placement and construction of new wells to meet state and local regulations. Most have rules about locating drinking water wells near septic tanks, drain fields, and livestock. But remember, the final responsibility for constructing your well correctly, protecting it from pollution, and maintaining it falls on the well owner.
You should be aware because the Safe Drinking Water Act does not protect private wells. EPA’s rules only apply to “public drinking water systems” — government or privately run companies supplying water to 25 people or 15 service connections. While most states regulate private household wells, most have limited rules. Individual well owners have primary responsibility for the safety of the water drawn from their wells. They do not benefit from the government’s health protections for water systems serving many families.
Basic Types of Wells
Dug Wells
Dug wells are usually holes in the ground dug by shovel or backhoe. Historically, a dug well was excavated below the groundwater table until incoming water exceeded the digger’s bailing rate. The well was then lined (cased) with stones, brick, tile, or other material to prevent collapse. It was covered with a cap of wood, stone, or concrete. Since it is so difficult to dig beneath the groundwater table, dug wells are not very deep. Typically, they are only 10 to 30 feet deep. Being so shallow, dug wells have the highest risk of becoming contaminated. To minimize the likelihood of contamination, your dug well should have certain features. These features help to prevent contaminants from traveling along the outside of the casing or through the casing and into the well. Dug wells usually have a diameter of about 3 feet which is considerably wider than a drilled well diameter. Thus, more water can be stored in reserve for a dug well. However, this water has a higher surface area, which contributes to the tendency for dug wells to go dry much easier than other types of wells.
Dug Well Construction Features
- The well should be cased with a watertight material (for example, tongue-and-groove precast concrete) and a cement grout or bentonite clay sealant poured along the outside of the casing to the top of the well.
- The well should be covered by a concrete curb and cap that stands about a foot above the ground.
- The land surface around the well should be mounded so that surface water runs away from the well and is not allowed to pond around the outside of the wellhead.
- Ideally, the pump for your well should be inside your home or in a separate pump house, rather than in a pit next to the well. Land activities around a dug well can also contaminate it. While dug wells are usually cheaper than drilled wells and have been used as a household water supply source for many years, most are “relics” of older homes, dug before drilling equipment was readily available or when drilling was considered too expensive. If you have a dug well on your property and are using it for drinking water, check to make sure it is properly covered and sealed. Another problem relating to the shallowness of a dug well is that it may go dry during a drought when the ground water table drops.
- Like dug wells, pull water from the water-saturated zone above the bedrock. Driven wells can be deeper than dug wells. They are typically 30 to 50 feet deep and are usually located in areas with thick sand and gravel deposits where the ground water table is within 15 feet of the ground’s surface. In the proper geologic setting, driven wells can be easy and relatively inexpensive to install. Although deeper than dug wells, driven wells are still relatively shallow and have a moderate to high risk of contamination from nearby land activities. They are unable to provide a high quantity of water. Driven Well Construction Features
- Assembled lengths of two inches to three inches diameter metal pipes are driven into the ground. A screened “well point” located at the end of the pipe helps drive the pipe through the sand and gravel. The screen allows water to enter the well and filters out sediment.
- The pump for the well is in one of two places: on top of the well or in the house. An access pit is usually dug around the well down to the frost line and a water discharge pipe to the house is joined to the well pipe with a fitting.
- The well and pit are capped with the same kind of large diameter concrete tile used for a dug well. The access pit may be cased with pre-cast concrete. To minimize this risk, the well cover should be a tight-fitting concrete curb and cap with no cracks and should sit about a foot above the ground. Slope the ground away from the well so that surface water will not pond around the well. If there’s a pit above the well, either to hold the pump or to access the fitting, you may also be able to pour a grout sealant along the outside of the well pipe. Protecting the water quality requires that you maintain proper well construction and monitor your activities around the well. It is also important to follow the same land use precautions around the driven well as described under dug wells.
Drilled Wells
- Drilled wells penetrate about 100-400 feet into the bedrock. Where you find bedrock at the surface, it is commonly called ledge. To serve as a water supply, a drilled well must intersect bedrock fractures containing ground water. Drilled wells do not run out of water as easily as dug wells because of their exceptional depth. Drilled wells are often considered the most dependable source of water. They typically have diameters that are around six inches and are surrounded by steel casing. Drilled wells have the capability of reaching depths of water that other types of wells cannot. The one downfall that drilled wells may have is that they are more expensive, there is an increased cost with increased dependability. Drilled wells can cost thousands or dollars more than dug wells but drilled wells are less prone to becoming contaminated. It may seem like drilled wells are therefore a better option every time, however that is not always the case. There are certain times when dug wells are the better option and the prevalence of certain types of wells changes with geographic location. For example, dug wells tend to be more common in Virginia while drilled wells are more common in Maine. Drilled Well Construction Features
- The casing is usually metal or plastic pipe, six inch in diameter that extends into the bedrock to prevent shallow ground water from entering the well. By law, the casing has to extend at least 18 feet into the ground, with at least five feet extending into the bedrock. The casing should also extend a foot or two above the ground’s surface. A sealant, such as cement grout or bentonite clay, should be poured along the outside of the casing to the top of the well. The well is capped to prevent surface water from entering the well.
- Submersible pumps, located near the bottom of the well, are most commonly u sed in drilled wells. Wells with a shallow water table may feature a jet pump located inside the home. Pumps require special wiring and electrical service. Well pumps should be installed and serviced by a qualified professional registered with your state.
- Most modern drilled wells incorporate a pitless adapter designed to provide a sanitary seal at the point where the discharge water line leaves the well to enter your home. The device attaches directly to the casing below the frost line and provides a watertight subsurface connection, protecting the well from frost and contamination.
- Older drilled wells may lack some of these sanitary features. The well pipe used was often eight-, 10- or 12- inches in diameter, and covered with a concrete well cap either at or below the ground’s surface. This outmoded type of construction does not provide the same degree of protection from surface contamination. Also, older wells may not have a pitless adapter to provide a seal at the point of discharge from the well.
Drive-Point Wells
A drive-point well — also known as a sand-point or well-point — is constructed using a pointed screen on the end of a series of tightly coupled lengths of steel pipe. The well casing pipe, which is usually 1¼ inches in diameter, is driven into the ground with a heavy hammer or well driver until the point is below the water table. Water then flows into the pipe through screened openings in the well point.
Bored Wells and Dug Wells
A bored well is constructed using an earth auger, which bores a hole into the earth. The bore hole is then lined — or cased — with masonry, concrete curbing, or casing. A dug well is constructed by excavating or digging a hole, generally several feet in diameter, down to the water table. Rock, brick, wood, pipe, and other materials have been used in the past to line the walls of dug wells. Dug wells, bored wells, and drive-point wells are often less than 50 feet deep, and are more likely to be contaminated by surface water, sewage from septic systems, or chemical spills. Many of the techniques used in the past for constructing dug or bored wells are not sanitary and are no longer legal under the state rules.
Well Casing
New household wells are lined with steel or plastic pipe known as well casing. The casing is typically 4 to 6 inches in diameter and extends from above the ground surface into the aquifer. The casing provides a connection to the groundwater and a pathway for bringing the water to the surface. The casing also prevents loose soil, sediment, rock, and contaminants from entering the well. The casing may also house and protect the pump. In order to prevent contaminants from entering the well, the well casing must be properly vented and have a cap that is weatherproof and insect-proof. The type of casing chosen depends on the drilling method, local geological conditions, and natural groundwater quality. Steel casing is installed when the cable tool method is used to construct the well, or when high strength is needed. Plastic casing is lighter in weight and resistant to the corrosive effects of some groundwater, as well as the effects of chemicals that may be used to treat the system. Whichever type of casing is installed, it must be watertight, extend at least 15 feet below the ground surface, some states have their own specifications and standards that must be met.
Well Screen
If a well pumps water from a sand or gravel aquifer, a well screen is usually attached to the bottom of the casing. The screen is a sieve or strainer-like cylinder that extends into the aquifer and allows water to move through it, while preventing sand and gravel from entering the well. The screen openings — or slot size — are selected by determining the size of the sand or gravel particles comprising the aquifer. A well screen is generally not necessary if the bottom of the well has been drilled into solid bedrock — such as sandstone, limestone, or granite — that can remain open on its own. The screen is typically made of stainless steel, carbon steel, plastic, or brass. Stainless steel or plastic screens are most often used if the groundwater is corrosive. The screen is typically 3 to 5 feet in length for residential wells but may be tens of feet long for municipal, industrial, or irrigation wells. It is usually slightly smaller than the diameter of the well casing. It may be threaded or welded to the casing. It may also be telescoped — that is, inserted inside the well casing and sealed to the casing with a neoprene packer. An envelope of sand or gravel — called a gravel pack or a filter pack — may be placed outside the well screen, between the screen and the bore hole wall. The filter pack keeps fine sediment from entering the screen and also promotes the movement of water into the well
Grouting
The rotary drilling method produces a bore hole which is larger in diameter than the casing. The space between the outside of the well casing and the bore hole wall is called the annular space. After the well casing has been placed in the bore hole, it is necessary to fill the annular space to keep surface water and other contaminants from entering the well. The material used to fill this annular space is called grout, a specific mixture of water and cement, or water and “bentonite” clay, and sometimes other permitted additives such as sand. There are restrictions and regulations on how the grout must be installed in certain states such as, the grout must be pumped in from the bottom of the well upward, to assure a complete seal around the casing. The usual method is to insert a ¾- to 1¼-inch diameter pipe (known as a grout pipe or tremie pipe) down to the bottom of the space between the well casing and the bore hole. The grout is then pumped in until it comes to the ground surface. The grout must not be poured from the surface. All rotary-drilled wells must be grouted from a required minimum depth to the surface or to the base of the pitless adapter or unit. There are additional grouting requirements for some other types of wells, such as flowing wells, and wells drilled in certain kinds of rock.
Developing a Well
After a well is drilled, it is necessary to remove drilling mud, cuttings, and loose sediment from the bottom of the well and from around the screen. This process, which promotes the movement of water into the well, is called development. A number of techniques can be used to develop a well. Air or water can be injected into the well, or water can be pumped out of the well at higher than normal rates. A properly constructed and developed well should not normally produce sand. If you notice sand in your water, you should call your well contractor. The sand can damage or plug up your well pump, water softeners, plumbing, faucets, and many household appliances, such as dishwashers.
The Water System
Introduction
A water system is needed to pump the water out of the well to the surface and deliver it under pressure to the place where you will be using it. A typical home water system consists of a pump, a pitless adapter or unit, and a pressure storage tank and control devices that allow the system to operate automatically.
Pumps
A pump is used to push or lift water from the well into your household plumbing. The correct size of pump and pump motor depends on the well diameter, the water level in the well, the number of plumbing fixtures, the amount of water use, and the peak water demand. Peak demand usually occurs during the morning and evening hours. Pumps are rated in gallons per minute (gpm) or gallons per hour (gph), and pump motors are rated in horsepower (hp). A typical pump for domestic use might have a 10 gpm pump with a ½ or ¾ hp motor. Special water needs — such as for irrigation, heat pumps, or livestock — can increase peak demand and require a larger pump. If the required rate of flow to meet the peak water demand exceeds the rate that the well can produce water, the difference can often be made up by increasing the storage capacity of the pressure tank.
Submersible
Pumps A submersible pump, which is the type most often used in drilled wells, consists of a pump and motor unit, typically 3½ inches in diameter and 2 to 3 feet long. The pump is placed directly into the well, below the water level, as indicated in Figure 3. Most submersible pumps are used in wells 4 inches or more in diameter, but some pumps are available for wells that are 3 inches in diameter.
For a submersible pump, a trench must be dug for the installation process and for the electrical wires that run to the pump. The submersible pump sits in the well water and thus electrical wires must run into the well, to the well casing. The wires can go into the water service pipe. There can be underground utilities in the path of the excavation, and this must me avoided. It is usually simple to get someone to come out and mark the underground utilities and there may be a service in place that already offers this type of identification. The trench must go deeper than the frost line due to the fact that the water service pipe has water in it constantly and thus is susceptible to freezing. The frost line will change from one location to the next and your local code office should have that information.
Jet Pumps
Jet pumps are most often used on wells that are 3 inches or less in diameter, such as drivepoint or other shallow wells. The pump may be located on top of the well — or it may be offset from the well in a pump house, and connected to the well with piping. Jet pumps typically have a lower operating pressure and a lower water yield than submersible pumps. Jet pumps operate by forcing water through a jet or venturi — a narrow, cone-shaped device which creates a partial vacuum (suction) and draws water from the well into the pumping system.
Shallow well jet pumps — which are used where the water is less than 25 feet below the surface — have the jet located in the pump itself. For deeper wells, the jet is located inside the well below the water level.
Deep Well Jet Installations
Two types of jet assemblies are used in deeper wells: two pipe jets and packer jets. The two-pipe jet has both a pressure pipe and a suction pipe located inside the well. A packer jet uses a single pipe for the suction pipe with the space between the outside of the suction pipe and the well casing acting as the pressure pipe. The inner pipe is sealed to the casing with a rubber or leather gasket called a packer. Deep well jet installations require a foot valve below the jet in the well. The foot valve is simply a check valve which allows water to flow into the jet when the pump is running but closes tight when the pump shuts off. In some two pipe jet installations, a tail pipe with a foot valve is added to the bottom of the jet assembly. The purpose of the tail pipe is to prevent the risk of over-pumping, which would allow air to enter the system. Deep well jet pumps are usually installed on wells with water levels less than 200 feet deep. All jet pump systems have some portions of the piping that operate under suction. In systems where the pump is located some distance away from the well, the suction pipe is usually buried. If a buried section of suction pipe between the well and the pump developed a leak, contaminants could be drawn into the water supply system. For that reason, some state laws specify that concentric pipe must be used for buried sections of suction pipe. Concentric piping consists of a suction pipe, which is contained inside an outer, pressurized pipe.
Turbine Pumps
Turbine pumps are typically used for municipal, industrial, or irrigation wells, which produce a large volume of water. They have a motor which is placed on top of the well and a turbine shaft extending below the water level. The bottom of the shaft is connected to impellers which push water to the discharge pipe at the top of the well.
Cylinder Pumps
Cylinder pumps, which are used in windmills and hand pumps, have largely been replaced by jet pumps or submersible pumps. They consist of a cylinder on a pump rod, which moves up and down and forces water to the surface.
Pressure Tanks
Most water systems include a water storage container called a pressure tank or hydropneumatic tank (Figures 3 and 4). The pressure tank is usually located in the basement or a utility room, although some types of tanks may be buried underground.
The pressure tank has three purposes:
• To store water and provide water under pressure when the pump is not running.
• To build up a reserve supply of water each time the pump runs, so the pump has to start and stop less often. This serves to prolong the life of the pump.
• To provide a reserve supply of water for use during times of high demand. As the name implies, a pressure tank contains water under pressure. As water is pumped into the tank, it compresses the air in the tank until the pressure reaches a preset level — typically from 40 to 60 pounds per square inch (psi) — which automatically shuts off the pump. When a faucet is opened, the air pressure in the tank forces water through the pipes until the pressure drops to another preset level — usually from 20 to 40 psi — which starts the pump again. A pressure switch starts and stops the pump at the preset pressure levels, and allows the system to work automatically.
Drawdown
The size of the tank usually depends on the amount of water produced by the pump in 1 to 2 minutes. The amount of water delivered by the pressure tank between the time the pump shuts down and the time it starts up again is called the drawdown. The drawdown is typically much smaller than the overall size of the tank. Common pressure tank sizes range from 10 gallons to over 200 gallons. Tanks holding 20 to 44 gallons, which have a drawdown of 5 to 16 gallons, are the most frequently used. Larger tanks, or more than one tank, may be needed for low-yield wells or systems with high water demands. The most common type of pressure tank design has a diaphragm or bladder, which provides a permanent separation between the air and the water in the tank. If the air and water are not separated, the water can eventually absorb all the air in the tank, a condition called waterlogging. The pump will then rapidly turn on and off, which is called “cycling.” It is a good idea to have a faucet placed near the pressure tank for flushing the tank and collecting water samples for testing.
What Problems Can Occur?
Actual events of drinking water contamination are rare, and typically do not occur at levels likely to pose health concerns. However, as development in our modern society increases, there are growing numbers of activities that can contaminate our drinking water. Improperly disposed-of chemicals, animal and human wastes, wastes injected underground, and naturally occurring substances have the potential to contaminate drinking water. Likewise, drinking water that is not properly treated or disinfected, or that travels through an improperly maintained distribution system, may also pose a health risk. Greater vigilance by you, your water supplier, and your government can help prevent such events in your water supply.
Contaminants can enter water supplies either as a result of human and animal activities, or because they occur naturally in the environment. Threats to your drinking water may exist in your neighborhood, or may occur many miles away. For more information on drinking water threats, see www.epa.gov/safewater/publicoutreach/landscapeposter.html. Some typical examples are microbial contamination, chemical contamination from fertilizers, and lead contamination.
Lead Contamination
Lead, a metal found in natural deposits, is commonly used in household plumbing materials and water service lines. The greatest exposure to lead is swallowing lead paint chips or breathing in lead dust.
But lead in drinking water can also cause a variety of adverse health effects. In babies and children, exposure to lead in drinking water above the action level of lead (0.015 milligram per liter) can result in delays in physical and mental development, along with slight deficits in attention span and learning abilities.
Adults who drink this water over many years could develop kidney problems or high blood pressure. Lead is rarely found in source water, but enters tap water through corrosion of plumbing materials. Very old and poorly maintained homes may be more likely to have lead pipes, joints, and solder. However, new homes are also at risk: pipes legally considered to be “lead-free” may contain up to eight percent lead. These pipes can leach significant amounts of lead in the water for the first several months after their installation.
Microbial Contamination
The potential for health problems from microbial contaminated drinking water is demonstrated by localized outbreaks of waterborne disease. Many of these outbreaks have been linked to contamination by bacteria or viruses, probably from human or animal wastes. For example, in 1999 and 2000, there were 39 reported disease outbreaks associated with drinking water, some of which were linked to public drinking water supplies. Certain pathogens (disease-causing microorganisms), such as Cryptosporidium, may occasionally pass through water filtration and disinfection processes in numbers high enough to cause health problems, particularly in vulnerable members of the population. Cryptosporidium causes the gastrointestinal disease, cryptosporidiosis, and can cause serious, sometimes fatal, symptoms, especially among sensitive members of the population.
A serious outbreak of cryptosporidiosis occurred in 1993 in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, causing more than 400,000 persons to be infected with the disease, and resulting in at least 50 deaths. This was the largest recorded outbreak of waterborne disease in United States history.
Chemical Contamination and Blue Baby Syndrome
Chemical Contamination from Fertilizers:
Nitrate, a chemical most commonly used as a fertilizer, poses an immediate threat to infants when it is found in drinking water at levels above the national standard. Nitrates are converted to nitrites in the intestines. Once absorbed into the bloodstream, nitrites prevent hemoglobin from transporting oxygen. (Older children have an enzyme that restores hemoglobin.) Excessive levels can cause “blue baby syndrome,” which can be fatal without immediate medical attention. Infants most at risk for blue baby syndrome are those who are already sick, and while they are sick, consume food that is high in nitrates or drink water or formula mixed with water that is high in nitrates. Avoid using water with high nitrate levels for drinking. This is especially important for infants and young children, nursing mothers, pregnant women and certain elderly people. Nitrate levels above 10 mg/L (reported as nitrogen) can cause a condition known as infantile methemoglobinemia, or blue baby syndrome, in infants less than six months old. This condition occurs when nitrate is ingested and then converted to nitrite (NO2) by stomach bacteria. The nitrite then reacts with hemoglobin in the blood to form methemoglobin. The build up of methemoglobin reduces the ability of the blood to carry oxygen. If the level of methemoglobin becomes high enough, the baby’s skin will turn a bluish color and suffocation can occur. Untreated methemoglobinemia can be fatal, but it is reversible with prompt medical attention. After six months of age, the conversion of nitrate to nitrite in the stomach no longer occurs. Water containing more than 10 mg/L nitratenitrogen should not be given to infants less than six months of age either directly or in formula. Blue baby syndrome has been known to occur after just one day of exposure to high nitrate water.
How Much Risk to Expect
The risk of having problems depends on how good your well is — how well it was built and located, and how well it is maintained. It also depends on your local environment. That includes the quality of the aquifer from which you draw your water and the human activities going on in your area that can affect your well water. Some questions to consider in protecting your drinking water and maintaining your well are:
• What distance should my well be from sources of human wastes such as septic systems?
• How far should it be from animal feedlots or manure spreading?
• What are the types of soil and underlying rocks? Does water flow easily or collect on the surface?
• How deep must a well be dug to avoid seasonal changes in ground water supply?
• What activities in my area (farming, mining, industry) might affect my well?
• What is the age of my well, its pump, and other parts?
• Is my water distribution system protected from cross connections and backflow problems?
Quick Reference of Problems Quick Reference List of Noticeable Problems Visible
• Scale or scum from calcium or magnesium salts in water
• Unclear/turbid water from dirt, clay salts, silt or rust in water
• Green stains on sinks or faucets caused by high acidity
• Brown-red stains on sinks, dishwasher, or clothes in wash points to dissolved iron in water
• Cloudy water that clears upon standing may have air bubbles from poorly working pump or problem with filters Tastes
• Salty or brackish taste from high sodium content in water
• Alkali/soapy taste from dissolved alkaline minerals in water
• Metallic taste from acidity or high iron content inwater
• Chemical taste from industrial chemicals orpesticides Smell
• A rotten egg odor can be from dissolved hydrogen sulfide gas orcertain bacteria in your water. If the smell only comes with hot water it islikely from a part in your hot water heater.
• A detergent odor and water that foams when drawn could be seepage from septic tanks into your ground water well.
• A gasoline or oil smell indicates fuel oil or gasoline likely seeping from a tank into the water supply
• Methane gas or musty/earthy smell from decaying organic matter inwater
• Chlorine smell from excessive chlorination. Note: Many serious problems (bacteria, heavy metals, nitrates, radon, and many chemicals) can only be found by laboratory testing of water.
Naturally Occurring Pollutants
Microorganisms: Bacteria, viruses, parasites and other microorganisms are sometimes found in water. Shallow wells — those with water close to ground level — are at most risk.
Runoff: Runoff, or water flowing over the land surface, may pick up these pollutants from wildlife and soils. This is often the case after flooding. Some of these organisms can cause a variety of illnesses. Symptoms include nausea and diarrhea. These can occur shortly after drinking contaminated water. The effects could be short-term yet severe (similar to food poisoning) or might recur frequently or develop slowly over a long time.
Radionuclides: Radionuclides are radioactive elements such as uranium and radium. They may be present in underlying rock and groundwater. Radon — a gas that is a natural product of the breakdown of uranium in the soil — can also pose a threat. Radon is most dangerous when in- haled and contributes to lung cancer. Although soil is the primary source, using household water containing Radon contributes to elevated indoor Radon levels. Radon is less dangerous when consumed in water, but remains a risk to health.
Nitrates and Nitrites: Although high nitrate levels are usually due to human activities (see below), they may be found naturally in ground water. They come from the breakdown of nitrogen compounds in the soil. Flowing ground water picks them up from the soil. Drinking large amounts of nitrates and nitrites is particularly threatening to infants (for example, when mixed in formula).
Heavy Metals: Underground rocks and soils may contain arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead, and selenium. However, these contaminants are not often found in household wells at dangerous levels from natural sources. Fluoride: Fluoride is helpful in dental health, so many water systems add small amounts to drinking water. However, excessive consumption of naturally occurring fluoride can Page 34 of 82 damage bone tissue. High levels of fluoride occur naturally in some areas. It may discolor teeth, but this is not a health risk.
Human Activities That Pollute Ground Water
Bacteria and Nitrates: These pollutants are found in human and animal wastes. Septic tanks can cause bacterial and nitrate pollution. So can large numbers of farm animals. Both septic systems and animal manures must be carefully managed to prevent pollution. Sanitary landfills and garbage dumps are also sources. Children and some adults are at extra risk when exposed to water-born bacteria. These include the elderly and people whose immune systems are weak due to AIDS or treatments for cancer. Fertilizers can add to nitrate problems. Nitrates cause a health threat in very young infants called “blue baby” syndrome. This condition disrupts oxygen flow in the blood.
Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs): The number of CAFOs, often called “factory farms,” is growing. On these farms thousands of animals are raised in a small space. The large amounts of animal wastes/ manures from these farms can threaten water supplies. Strict and careful manure management is needed to prevent pathogen and nutrient problems. Salts from high levels of manures can also pollute groundwater.
Heavy Metals: Activities such as mining and construction can release large amounts of heavy metals into nearby ground water sources. Some older fruit orchards may contain high levels of arsenic, once used as a pesticide. At high levels, these metals pose a health risk.
Fertilizers and Pesticides: Farmers use fertilizers and pesticides to pro- mote growth and reduce insect damage. These products are also used on golf courses and suburban lawns and gardens. The chemicals in these products may end up in ground water. Such pollution depends on the types and amounts of chemicals used and how they are applied. Local environ- mental conditions (soil types, seasonal snow and rainfall) also affect this pollution. Many fertilizers contain forms of nitrogen that can break down into harmful nitrates. This could add to other sources of nitrates mentioned above. Some underground agricultural drainage systems collect fertilizers and pesticides. This polluted water can pose problems to ground water and local streams and rivers. In addition, chemicals used to treat buildings and homes for termites or other pests may also pose a threat. Again, the possibility of problems depends on the amount and kind of chemicals. The types of soil and the amount of water moving through the soil also play a role.
How to Spot Potential Problems
The potential for pollution entering your well is affected by its placement and construction — how close is your well to potential sources of pollution? Local agricultural and industrial activities, your area’s geology and climate also matter. Because ground water contamination is usually localized, the best way to identify potential contaminants is to gather more knowledge on the subject and/or consult a local expert. For example, talk with a geologist at a local college or someone from a nearby public water system. They’ll know about conditions in your area.
Knowing When to Test
The following questions will help you determine when it is necessary to test the ground water supply:
• Do you expect to have a new baby in the household? Test for nitrate in the early months of a pregnancy, before bringing an infant home, and again during the first six months of the baby’s life. It is best to test for nitrate during the spring or summer following a rainy period.
• Is there a taste, odor and staining issues? Test for sulfate, chloride, iron, manganese, hardness and corrosion, and every three years. If you suspect other contaminants, test for these also.
• Has there been a chemical or fuel spill or leak near the water supply? Test the well for chemical contaminants, such as volatile organic compounds. Tests can be expensive; limit them to possible problems specific to your situation. Local experts can tell you about possible impurities in your area.
• Is someone in the household pregnant or nursing an infant?
• Are there unexplained illnesses in the family?
• Do you notice a change in water taste, odor, color or clarity?
Test water every year for total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids, and pH levels. If you suspect other contaminants, test for these also. Chemical tests can be expensive. Limit them to possible problems specific to your situation. Again, local experts can tell you about possible impurities in your area. Often county health departments do tests for bacteria and nitrates. For other substances, health departments, environmental offices, or county governments should have a list of state certified laboratories. Your State Laboratory Certification Officer can also provide one. Call EPA’s Safe Drinking Water Hotline, (800) 426- 4791, for the name and phone number of your state’s certification officer.
Before taking a sample, contact the lab that will perform your tests. Ask for instructions and sampling bottles. Follow the instructions carefully so you will get correct results. The first step is getting a good water sample. It is also important to follow advice about storing the samples. Ask how soon they must be taken to the lab for testing.
These instructions can be very different for each substance being tested.
Remember to test water after replacing or repairing any part of the well system (piping, pump, or the well itself.) Also test if you notice a change in the water’s look, taste, or smell
Understanding Test Results
Have your well water tested for any possible contaminants in your area. Use a stateapproved testing lab. Do not be surprised if a lot of substances are found and reported to you.
The amount of risk from a drinking water contaminant depends on the specific substance and the amount in the water. The health of the person also matters. Some contaminant cause immediate and severe effects. It may take only one bacterium or virus to make a weak person sick. Another person may not be affected. For very young children, taking in high levels of nitrate over a relatively short period of time can be very dangerous. Many other contaminants pose a long-term or chronic threat to your health — a little bit consumed regularly over a long time could cause health problems such as trouble having children and other effects.
EPA drinking water rules for public water systems aim to protect people from both short and long term health hazards. The amounts of contaminants allowed are based on protecting people over a lifetime of drinking water. Public water systems are required to test their water regularly before delivery. They also treat it so that it meets drinking water standards, notify customers if water does not meet standards and provide annual water quality reports.
Compare your well’s test results to federal and state drinking water standards. (You can find these standards at www.epa.gov/safewater/mcl.html or call the Safe Drinking Water Hotline 800-426-4791. In some cases, the laboratory will give a very helpful explanation. But you may have to rely on other experts to aid you in understanding the results.
Well Construction and Maintenance
Proper well construction and continued maintenance are keys to the safety of your water supply. Your state water-well contractor licensing agency, local health department, or local water system professional can provide information on well construction. Water-well drillers and pump-well installers are listed in your local phone directory. The contractor should be bonded and insured. Make certain your ground water contractor is registered or licensed in your state, if required. If your state does not have a licensing/registration program contact the National Ground Water Association. They have a voluntary certification program for contractors. (In fact, some states use the Association’s exams as their test for licensing.) For a list of certified con- tractors in your state contact the Association at (614) 898-7791 or (800) 551-7379. There is no cost for mailing or faxing the list to you.
Many homeowners tend to forget the value of good maintenance until problems reach crisis levels. That can be expensive. It’s better to maintain your well, find problems early, and correct them to protect your well’s performance. Keep up-to-date records of well installation and repairs plus pumping and water tests. Such records can help spot changes and possible problems with your water system. If you have problems, ask a local expert to check your well construction and maintenance records. He or she can see if your system is okay or needs work.
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