• Running an unvented kerosene or gas fired space heater — each gallon of fuel burned creates about 7.5 pints of water vapor.
• Cooking a gas range without using a ducted range hood — each burner produces between 1 and 2 pints per hour.
• Storing firewood indoors — a cord of green firewood creates about 3.5 pints of water per day.
• Air drying clothes inside — each load of wash creates about 5 pints of water during drying.
• Showering — a 10-minute shower creates about 1 pint of water.
• Cooking without pot lids — about 1/6 pint per person per meal.
• Washing floors — about 4 pints per room.
• Watering plants — all the water is poured into house plants eventually evaporates into the room.
• Pets — pets, and people, create about 1 pint of water per 50 lbs of body weight per day.
• Hand washing dishes, including rinsing — about 1/3 pint per person per meal.
• Faucet aerators — 0.02 pints per minute.

• tub (excludes towels and spillage)0.12/standard size bath
• shower (excludes towels and spillage) 0.52/5-minute shower

• vented outdoors 0+/load (usually nil)not vented outdoors, or
• indoor line drying 4.68 to 6.18/load (more if gas dryer)

• breakfast (family of four, average) 0.35 (plus 0.58 if cooking with gas)
• lunch (family of four, average) 0.53 (plus 0.68 if cooking with gas)
• dinner (family of four, average) 1.22 (plus 1.58 if cooking with gas)
• simmer at 203°F, 10 minutes, 6-inch pan less than 0.01 if covered, 0.13 if uncovered
• boil 10 minutes, 6-inch pan 0.48 if covered, 0.57 if uncovered

• breakfast (family of four, average) 0.21
• lunch (family of four, average) 0.16
• dinner (family of four, average) 0.68

• animal dander (minute scales from hair, feathers, or skin);
• dust mite and cockroach parts;
• infectious agents (bacteria and viruses); and 
• pollen.

• allergic;
• infectious; and/or 
• toxic.

• watery eyes;
• runny nose and sneezing;
• nasal congestion;
• itching;
• coughing;
• wheezing and difficulty breathing;
• headache; and 
• fatigue.

• Does anyone in the family have frequent headaches, fevers, itchy and watery eyes, a stuffy nose, dry throat, or a cough? Does anyone complain of feeling tired or dizzy all the time? Is anyone wheezing or having difficulties breathing on a regular basis?
• Did these symptoms appear after you moved into a new or different home?
• Do the symptoms disappear when you go to school or the office or go away on a trip, and return when you come back?
• Have you recently remodeled your home or done any energy-conservation work, such as installing insulation, storm windows, or weather stripping? Did your symptoms occur during or after these activities?
• Does your home feel humid? Can you see moisture on the windows or on other surfaces, such as walls and ceilings?
• What is the usual temperature in your home? Is it very hot or cold?
• Have you recently had water damage?
• Is your basement wet or damp?
• Is there any obvious mold or mildew?
• Does any part of your home have a musty or moldy odor?
• Is the air stale?
• Do you have pets?
• Do your house plants show signs of mold?
• Do you have air conditioners or humidifiers that have not been properly cleaned?
• Does your home have cockroaches or rodents?

1. Dust and construction materials, such as wood, wallboard and insulation, contain nutrients that allow biological pollutants to grow. Firewood also is a source of moisture, fungi and bugs.
2. Appliances, such as humidifiers, kerosene and gas heaters, washers and clothes dryers, dishwashers and gas stoves, add moisture to the air.

• air-conditioning units;
• basements, attics and crawlspaces;
• bathrooms;
• carpets;
• heating and air-conditioning ducts;
• humidifiers and dehumidifiers; and
• refrigerator drip pans.

• Fix leaks and seepage. If water is entering the house from the outside, your options range from simple landscaping to extensive excavation and waterproofing. (The ground should slope away from the house.) Water in the basement can result from the lack of gutters or a water flow toward the house. Water leaks in pipes and around tubs and sinks can provide a place for biological pollutants to grow.
• Put a plastic cover over dirt crawlspaces to prevent moisture from coming in from the ground. Be sure crawlspaces are well-ventilated.
• Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens to remove moisture to the outside (not into the attic). Vent your clothes dryer to the outside.
• Turn off certain appliances (such as humidifiers and kerosene heaters) if you notice moisture on windows and other surfaces.
• Use dehumidifiers and air conditioners, especially in hot, humid climates, to reduce moisture in the air, but be sure that the appliances themselves don't become sources of biological pollutants.
• Raise the temperature of cold surfaces where moisture condenses. Use insulation and storm windows. (A storm window installed on the inside works better than one installed on the outside) Open doors between rooms (especially doors to closets which may be colder than the rooms) to increase circulation. Circulation carries heat to the cold surfaces Increase air circulation by using fans and by moving furniture from wall corners to promote air and heat circulation. Be sure that your house has a source of fresh air and can expel excessive moisture from the home.
• Pay special attention to carpet on concrete floors. Carpet can absorb moisture and serve as a place for biological pollutants to grow. Use area rugs, which can be taken up and washed often. In certain climates, if carpet is to be installed over a concrete floor, it maybe necessary to use a vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) over the concrete and cover that with sub-flooring (insulation covered with plywood) to prevent a moisture problem.
• Moisture problems and their solutions differ from one climate to another. The Northeast is cold and wet, the Southwest is hot and dry, the South is hot and wet, and the Western Mountain states are cold and dry. All of these regions can have moisture problems. For example, evaporative coolers used in the Southwest can encourage the growth of biological pollutants. In other hot regions, the use of air conditioners which cool the air too quickly may not be left running long enough to remove excess moisture from the air. The types of construction and weather for the different climates can lead to different problems and solutions.

• dirty air conditioners;
• dirty humidifiers and/or dehumidifiers;
• bathroom without vents or windows;
• kitchen without vents or windows;
• dirty refrigerator drip pans;
• laundry room with an unvented dryer;
• an unventilated attic;
• carpet on damp basement floor;
• bedding;
• closet on outside wall;
• dirty heating/air-conditioning system;
• pets; and 
• water damage (around windows, the roof, the basement).

• Have major appliances, such as furnaces, heat pumps and central air conditioners, inspected regularly by a professional InterNACHI inspector. Change filters on heating and cooling systems according to manufacturer's directions. (In general, change filters monthly during use.) When first turning on the heating or air conditioner at the start of the season, consider leaving your home until it airs out.
• Have window and wall air-conditioning units cleaned and serviced regularly by a professional, especially before the cooling season. Air conditioners can help reduce the entry of allergy-causing pollen. But they may also become a source of biological pollutants if not properly maintained. Clean the coils and rinse the drain pans, according to the manufacturer's instructions, so water cannot collect in pools.
• Have furnace-attached humidifiers cleaned and serviced regularly by a professional, especially before the heating season.
• Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using any type of humidifier. Experts differ on the benefits of using humidifiers. If you do use a portable humidifier (approximately 1- to 2-gallon tanks), be sure to empty its tank every day and refill it with distilled or demineralized water, or even fresh tap water, if the other types of water are unavailable.  For larger portable humidifiers, change the water as recommended by the manufacturer. Unplug the appliance before cleaning. Every third day, clean all surfaces coming in contact with water with a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide, using a brush to loosen deposits.  Some manufacturers recommend using diluted household bleach for cleaning and maintenance, generally in a solution of one-half cup bleach to 1 gallon of water. With any household chemical, rinse well to remove all traces of chemical before refilling the humidifier.
• Empty dehumidifiers daily and clean often. If possible, have the appliance drip directly into a drain. Follow manufacturer's instructions for cleaning and maintenance. Always disconnect the appliance before cleaning.
• Clean refrigerator drip pans regularly, according to manufacturer's instructions. If refrigerator and freezer doors don't seal properly, moisture may build up and mold can grow. Remove any mold on door gaskets, and replace faulty gaskets.

• Clean moist surfaces, such as showers and kitchen counters.
• Remove mold from walls, ceilings, floors and paneling. Do not simply cover mold with paint, stain, varnish, or a moisture-proof sealer, as the mold may resurface.
• Replace moldy shower curtains, or remove them and scrub them well with a household cleaner, and rinse them before rehanging them.

• Always wash bedding in hot water (at least 130° F) to kill dust mites. Cold water won't do the job. Launder bedding at least every seven to 10 days.
• Use synthetic or foam rubber mattress pads and pillows, and plastic mattress covers, if you are allergic. Do not use fuzzy wool blankets, feather or wool-stuffed comforters, and feather pillows.
• Clean rooms and closets well.  Dust and vacuum often to remove surface dust. Vacuuming and other cleaning may not remove all animal dander, dust mite material, and other biological pollutants. Some particles are so small, they can pass through vacuum bags and remain in the air. If you are allergic to dust, wear a mask when vacuuming and dusting. People who are highly allergy-prone should not perform these tasks. They may even need to leave the house when someone else is cleaning.

• Have professionals check the heating and cooling system, including humidifiers and vents. Have duct lining and insulation checked for growth.
• Check for exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens. If there are no vents, do the kitchen and bathrooms have at least one window in each room? Does the stovetop have a hood vented outside? Does the clothes dryer vent outside? Do all vents exhaust to the outside of the building, and not in attics or crawlspaces?
• Look for obvious mold growth throughout the house, including attics, basements and crawlspaces, and around the foundation outside. See if there are many plants close to the house, particularly if they are damp and rotting. They are a potential source of biological pollutants. Downspouts from roof gutters should route water away from the building.
• Look for stains on the walls, floor or carpet (including any carpet over concrete floors) as evidence of previous flooding or moisture problems. Is there moisture on windows and surfaces? Are there signs of leaks or seepage in the basement?
• Look for rotted building materials, which may suggest moisture or water damage.
• If you or anyone else in the family has a pet allergy, ask if any pets have lived in the home.
• Examine the design of the building. Remember that in cold climates, overhanging areas, rooms over unheated garages, and closets on outside walls may be prone to problems with biological pollutants.
• Look for signs of cockroaches. (Carefully read instructions for use and any cautionary labeling on cleaning products before beginning cleaning procedures.)
• Do not mix any chemical products. Especially, never mix cleaners containing bleach with any product (such as ammonia) which does not have instructions for such mixing.  When chemicals are combined, a dangerous gas can sometimes be formed.
• Household chemicals may cause burning or irritation to skin and eyes.
• Household chemicals may be harmful if swallowed or inhaled.
• Avoid contact with skin, eyes, mucous membranes, and clothing.
• Avoid breathing vapor. Open all windows and doors, and use an exhaust fan that sends the air outside.
• Keep household chemicals out of reach of children.
• Rinse treated surface areas well to remove all traces of chemicals.

• Throw out mattresses, wicker furniture, straw baskets and the like that have been water damaged or contain mold. These cannot be recovered.
• Discard any water-damaged furnishings, such as carpets, drapes, stuffed toys, upholstered furniture, and ceiling tiles, unless they can be recovered by steam cleaning or hot-water washing and thorough drying.
• Remove and replace wet insulation to prevent conditions where biological pollutants can grow.

• Choose vented appliances whenever possible.
• Buy only combustion appliances that have been tested and certified to meet current safety standards. Examples of certifying organizations are Underwriters Laboratories (UL) and the American Gas Association (AGA) Laboratories. Look for a label that clearly shows the certification.
• All currently manufactured vented gas heaters are required by industry safety standards to have a safety shut-off device. This device helps protect you from carbon monoxide poisoning by shutting off an improperly vented heater.
• Check your local and state building codes and fire ordinances to see if you can use an unvented space heater, if you are considering purchasing one. They are not allowed to be used in some communities, dwellings, and certain rooms in the house.
• If you must replace an unvented gas space heater with another, make it a new one. Heaters made after 1982 have a pilot light safety system called an oxygen depletion sensor (ODS). This system shuts off the heater when there is not enough fresh air, before the heater begins producing large amounts of carbon monoxide. Look for the label that tells you that the appliance has this safety system. Older heaters will not have this protection system.
• Consider buying gas appliances that have electronic ignitions rather than pilot lights. These appliances are usually more energy-efficient and eliminate the continuous low-level pollutants from pilot lights.
• Buy appliances that are the correct size for the area you want to heat. Using the wrong size heater may produce more pollutants in your home and is not an efficient use of energy.
• All new wood stoves are EPA-certified to limit the amounts of pollutants released into the outdoor air. For more information on selecting, installing, operating, and maintaining wood-burning stoves, write to the EPA Wood Heater Program. Before buying a wood stove, check your local laws about the installation and use of wood stoves.

• Keep doors open to the rest of the house from the room where you are using an unvented gas space heater or kerosene heater, and crack open a window. This allows enough air for proper combustion, and reduces the level of pollutants, especially carbon monoxide.
• Use a hood fan if you are using a range. They reduce the level of pollutants you breathe if they exhaust to the outside. Make sure that enough air is coming into the house when you use an exhaust fan. If needed, open a door or window slightly, especially if other appliances are in use. For proper operation of most combustion appliances and their venting systems, the air pressure in the house should be greater than that outside. If not, the vented appliances could release combustion pollutants into the house rather than outdoors. If you suspect that you have this problem, you may need the help of a qualified person to solve it.
• Make sure that your vented appliance has the vent connected and that nothing is blocking it. Make sure there are no holes or cracks in the vent. Do not vent gas clothes dryers or water heaters into the house for heating. This is unsafe.
• Open the stove's damper when adding wood. This allows more air into the stove. More air helps the wood burn properly, and prevents pollutants from being drawn back into the house instead of going up the chimney. If there is isible smoke or a constant smoky odor inside the home while using a wood-burning stove, this is a sign that the stove is not working properly. Soot on furniture in the rooms where you are using the stove also tells this. Smoke and soot are signs that the stove is releasing pollutants into the indoor air.

• Read and follow the instructions for all appliances so that you understand how they work. Keep the owner's manual in a convenient place to refer to when needed. Also, read and follow the warning labels because they tell you important safety information that you need to know. Reading and following the instructions and warning labels could save your life.
• Always use the correct fuel for the appliance.
• Use only water-clear ASTM 1-K kerosene for kerosene heaters. The use of kerosene other than 1-K could lead to a release of more pollutants in your home. Never use gasoline in a kerosene heater because it can cause a fire or an explosion. Using even small amounts of gasoline could cause a fire.
• Use seasoned hardwoods (elm, maple, oak) instead of softwoods (cedar, fir, pine) in wood-burning stoves and fireplaces. Hardwoods are better because they burn hotter and form less creosote, an oily, black tar that sticks to chimneys and stove pipes. Do not use green or wet woods as the primary wood because they make more creosote and smoke. Never burn painted scrap wood or wood treated with preservatives, because they could release highly toxic pollutants, such as arsenic or lead. Plastics, charcoal, and colored paper, such as comics and wrapping paper, also produce pollutants. Never burn anything that the stove or fireplace manufacturer does not recommend.
• Never use a range, oven or dryer to heat your home. When you misuse gas appliances in this way, they can produce fatal amounts of carbon monoxide. They can produce high levels of nitrogen dioxide, too.
• Never use an unvented combustion heater overnight or in a room where you are sleeping. Carbon monoxide from combustion heaters can reach dangerous levels.
• Never ignore a safety device when it shuts off an appliance. It means that something is wrong. Read your appliance instructions to find out what you should do, or have a professional check out the problem.
• Never ignore the smell of fuel. This usually indicates that the appliance is not operating properly or is leaking fuel. Leaking fuel will not always be detectable by smell. If you suspect that you have a fuel leak, have it fixed as soon as possible. In most cases, you should shut off the appliance, extinguish any other flames or pilot lights, shut off other appliances in the area, open windows and doors, call for help, and leave the area.

Moisture in the home can be a real issue.  We are all familiar with wet basements, roof leaks, window and door leaks, but what about damage caused by water vapor and poor ventilation? The bathroom can be a large contributor to moisture vapor in the home.  Condensing warm moist air on surfaces in the home can be a cause of mold growth.  But have you thought about what this same air can do to an attic without proper bathroom fan exhaust ducts?

How should they be ventilated from the interior?

Proper vent placement is critical.  Venting the exhaust pipe through the roof is the best way.  This helps ensure that the warm moist air is not recycled back through an open soffit vent to the attic.  It is important to locate bathroom exhaust vents away from any INTAKE air vent as well.

What happens when fans are not ventilated properly?

Terrible things can happen when vents are not ducted to the outside AND vents not properly placed.  As shown in the photo mold can develop as a result of poor placement.  In this instance the vent fan ducts were laid in the soffit space instead of properly vented through the roof.  The warm moisture laiden air was sucked back up the soffit vents and through the styrofoam chutes in the adjoining rafter spaces and have started to rot out the roof sheathing.   Mold eats wood.  Have you ever wondered why every tree that ever grew and died in the forest isn't still visible on the ground?  I will say it again - MOLD EATS WOOD. The picture is from a recent home inspection in Cedar Falls, but I have seen this on home inspections in Waverly, Waterloo, and other places.  This staining was visible on all of the other stryrofoam chute spaces as well on this side of the roof.  The worst ones were where the bathroom vents were located.  The bathroom remodel in this case was done in 2007.  This problem developed over time and is only getting worse each year.

How can this be fixed?

1. Showers and bathtubs:  I am looking for a temperature of 120 deg F and NO HIGHER.  Why?
   In showers and tubs I am especially concerned about burns.  The plumbing code talks about the temperature of water provided from these two fixtures specifically.  Under 120 deg F is the magic number.  They deem this a safe temperature.  Honestly, 110 deg F is plenty hot for a hot shower.  More on how this is regulated in a minute.  Ironically, the maximum temperature in the code for a bidet is 110 deg F and for OBVIOUS REASONS.  Use your imagination and if you don't know what a bidet is - Google it. 
2. Kitchen sinks, laundry, bathroom sinks and other faucets:  I am looking for a temperature of more than 120 deg F.  Why?  In these fixtures, especially in the kitchen sink and laundry room and other hand washing areas over 120 deg F is what it takes to kill bacteria, especially Legionella bacteria growth (Legionnaires Disease) - The minimum temperature to prevent Legionella bacteria growth is 122°F. Above 122°F and up to 131°F, Legionella bacteria survives, but will not multiply. At 131°F, it takes about 5 to 6 hours for the bacteria to die. At 140°F, the bacteria dies in about 32 minutes. At 151°F, the bacteria dies instantly. The recommended minimum disinfection temperature is a few degrees above 151°F, which is 158°F for about 5 minutes. To prevent bacteria growth, a safety factor of a couple of degrees would require a minimum of 124°F at the coolest spot in the hot water distribution system (the pipes).  Now, this is why it is a good practice to let water that has sat in the pipes for awhile to just drain out and run down the drain.

1. Shut off the power. For electric heaters, shut the unit down completely. For gas heaters, move the control dial to "pilot.
2. Turn off the cold water supply to the tank.
3. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve located near the bottom of the tank, and then run the hose to a drain.
4. Open a hot water faucet in a nearby sink and leave it open.
5. Open the water heater’s drain valve. Caution: Be careful. The water will be very hot.
6. Drain the tank until the water runs clear. This may take a few minutes or longer.
   
   Pro Tip: Plumbers will often turn the water on and off a few times to help stir up the sediment at the bottom of the tank.
   
   
7. Once the water is clear, close the drain valve and turn on the water supply. You'll know the tank is full when water is flowing through the faucet you left open earlier.
8. When the tank is full, turn the power back on.

1. Place a small bucket under the extension tube.
2. Lift the valve up, and then push the lever back into position to close the valve. Caution: Stand back because hot water will be released from the valve.
3. If there is no release of pressure in the form of air and/or water, the valve may be defective. Consult a plumber to have it fixed.

1. Turn the temperature controls up so that the burner starts. Wait a few minutes to give the unit time to get going.
2. Place your fingers near the opening between the hood and the top of the tank. If you feel air brush across your fingers and up the draft hood, the flue is drawing properly, so you can reset the water to normal operating temperature.
3. If you don’t feel air, the flue may not be drawing.  Black soot around the top of the tank and the vent hood is also a sign that system is not venting properly. There could be a couple of reasons for the problem, including blockage in the chimney.  To be safe, shut down the unit and call in a professional to inspect the system.

1. Turn off the power to the water heater, and shut off the water.
2. Drain off 4 or 5 gallons of water through the drain valve. This will help prevent water splashing up on you as you remove the rod. It is not necessary to drain the entire tank.
3. Locate the rod. It’s often threaded to the top of the tank. You may see it right away, or you may need to consult your manual for its location.
4. To remove the rod, you will need a ratchet with a 1-1/16-inch socket. Have a helper hold the tank steady while you loosen the rod, and then carefully pull it out.
5. If there are sections of the rod missing, you should replace the rod. If necessary, cut the new rod to match the size of the old one. Apply some plumber’s tape to the threads of the new rod, and then carefully lower it into the tank and tighten it.
6. Turn the water on and wait for the tank to fill up again. Then, turn the power to the water heater back on.

• cut bottom cord of structural truss. Often, homeowners will cut through a structural member in the field while installing a pull-down ladder, unknowingly weakening the structure. Structural members should not be modified in the field without an engineer’s approval;
• fastened with improper nails or screws. Homeowners often use drywall or deck screws rather than the standard 16d penny nails or ¼” x 3” lag screws. Nails and screws that are intended for other purposes may have reduced shear strength and they may not support pull-down ladders;
• fastened with an insufficient number of nails or screws. Manufacturers provide a certain number of nails with instructions that they all be used, and they probably do this for a good reason. Inspectors should be wary of “place nail here” notices that are nowhere near any nails;
• lack of insulation. Hatches in many houses (especially older ones) are not likely to be weather-stripped and/or insulated. An uninsulated attic hatch allows air from the attic to flow freely into the home, which may cause the heating or cooling system to run overtime. An attic hatch cover box can be installed to increase energy savings;
• loose mounting bolts. This condition is more often caused by age rather than installation, although improper installation will hasten the loosening process;
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too short. Stairs should reach the floor; 
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too long. This causes pressure at the folding hinge, which can cause breakage;
• improper or missing fasteners;
• compromised fire barrier when installed in the garage.  The door should have the same fire barrier material as the ceiling.  This is usually 1/2" drywall.
• attic ladder frame is not properly secured to the ceiling opening;
• closed ladder is covered with debris, such as blown insulation or roofing material shed during roof work. Inspectors can place a sheet on the floor beneath the ladder to catch whatever debris may fall onto the floor; and
• cracked steps. This defect is a problem with wooden ladders. 
• In sliding pull-down ladders, there is a potential for the ladder to slide down quickly without notice. Always pull the ladder down slowly and cautiously. 

• Do not allow children to enter the attic through an attic access. The lanyard attached to the attic stairs should be short enough that children cannot reach it. Parents can also lock the attic ladder so that a key or combination is required to access it.
• If possible, avoid carrying large loads into the attic. While properly installed stairways may safely support an adult man, they might fail if he is carrying, for instance, a bag full of bowling balls. Such trips can be split up to reduce the weight load.
• Replace an old, rickety wooden ladder with a new one. Newer aluminum models are often lightweight, sturdy and easy to install.

​​4. Seal and insulate your home. Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can assess  leakage in the building envelope and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings. The following are some common places where leakage may occur: electrical receptacles/outlets; mail slots; around pipes and wires; wall- or window-mounted air conditioners; attic hatches; fireplace dampers; inadequate weatherstripping around doors; baseboards; window frames; and switch plates. Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as:  Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas. Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry. Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foamboard insulation in the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner. 

Jon Bronemann Home Inspections, LLC can use thermal imaging to help you find the spots in the home that need attention.  See the video below of how this technology works.

​5. Install efficient showerheads and toilets. The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes: low-flow showerheads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up; low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of 2 gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank; vacuum-assist toilets. This type of toilet has a vacuum chamber that uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum-assist toilets are relatively quiet; and dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.

• Wait for a calm, windless day to clean your roof.
• Spray landscape plants near the house with water and cover them with tarps to protect them from chemical overspray and runoff.
• Wear protective clothing, including long sleeves, pants and gloves, as well as goggles to protect your eyes, and shoes with high-traction soles.

• A homeowner finished off a basement and added a circuit wire for the new basement bedroom.  This would be a red flag to me because current requirement state that bedrooms be on Arc Fault Breakers.
  
• A homeowner added a bathroom to the home.  Bathrooms should not share a circuit breaker with anything else in the home but another bathroom.
  
• Double taps on breakers that are not rated for them just SCREAM of projects done without permits or inspections.  Usually this kind of work was done by "I have a buddy who knows electrical" folks.  

• Add A Circuit Breaker.  If there is room in the panel, another circuit breaker can be added and the conductors split off to the two different circuit breakers.  The breakers need to be of the same series and manufacturer of panel.  NO NOT MIX and MATCH.  I have seen GE breakers stuck in Square D panels.  They do NOT fit exactly and are not rated to be used, but they do conduct electricity.  It is just that later down the road that because they don't fit exactly arcing can happen on the bus bar and damage the bar and the breaker.  This can be a fire hazard. 
• Install a tandem breaker if the panel is designed to use tandem breakers and a tandem breaker can be properly used in lieu of the wrong circuit breaker, this is another acceptable fix.  This is basically a way to install two circuit breakers in one space.  HOWEVER, the tandem breaker must be installed in the exact spots shown on the wiring schematic on the panel.  This is why electricians go to school and learn to read and know what the schematic drawing tells them.
• In cases where the panel won't accept tandem breakers or if breakers are no longer available for that panel the panel should be replaced.  A licensed electrician will be able to make that determination and give recommendations.

1. major defects.  An example of this would be a structural failure;
2. things that lead to major defects, such as a small roof-flashing leak, for example;
3. things that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home; and
4. safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electrical panel.